Wednesday, October 28th

Washington, NC

Time to start cleaning up the boat for its vacation. Dave and RoseAnn from Pyxis came by at 11am and we went shopping and then to Russ, their friend who has a house there. We spent a nice day together, and we did something productive too by removing lots of stuff from Pyxis before they put her on land. RoseAnn had baked her famous Caramel cake for us and it was delicious. Later she made a wonderful Chicken Pot Pie. I got the recipes for both things and will try them soon.
I decided to leave Caprice at McCotters, and booked a flight back to Chicago for tomorrow. Then we headed off to party at the club house. Lots of fun, Dave and RoseAnn are a blast. I'm sorry to only spend so little time with them now, but hope I'll see them again soon, and maybe convince them to go to the Bahamas with Pyxis and Caprice together.

Thursday, October 29th

Washington, NC back to Chicago

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All that remained to do was moving Caprice to her dock and clean up. I made an attempt to fix the fresh water bladder tank with 5200, but I don't really have high hopes, and in any case that tank is much too small. When I come back I'll buy a bigger one. Mark of McCotters gave me a lift to the airport (many thanks Mark!) and I made my flight with only a few minutes to spare.

Day 54, Tuesday, October 27th

Belhaven to Washington, NC

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Weather today started similar to yesterday, a nice stiff breeze from the NE that was just the perfect direction to go at speed. I first sailed south until I 'turned the corner' toward the west. The wind did never stop - I had an amazingly fast ride. The Caprice did better than ever before - the GPS showed a speed of 7 knots most of the time, and sometimes even a little higher. This is the fastest a boat of Caprice's length and weight can go. Even more wind and bigger sails couldn't drive her any faster, because this is something like the sound barrier for boats that are too heavy to 'lift' up on the surface, like powerful motorboats. Caprice and most other sailboats are much too heavy to lift themselves up, and are in effect sitting in their own bow wave.

One curious thing I learned on this journey is that there are many more ketch rigged boats (one large mast, one smaller mast in the stern) than I imagined. I think every 5th boat I saw cruising was a ketch. Many times their owners run them 'jig and jigger', meaning what you see below - they use the jib and the mizzen sail, but leave the main sail in the bag.

On the other hand, I've seen only 4 catamarans in total. I guess they are all in the islands?

A light rain started before I reached my destination - McCotter's Marina in Washington, NC. I'll investigate storage of the Caprice in this area and will probably fly back to Chicago by the end of the week.

Day 53, Monday, October 26th

Entrance of the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal to Belhaven

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The wind was blowing cool and strong in the morning through the anchorage - I decided to give the engine a rest and sail as much as possible again today. The wind was strong enough to go with the foresail alone, and I got to the entrance of the canal very soon. The northern edge of the canal is dense with trees that were effectively shielding me from the wind, so at that point I started the engine and motor sailed the rest of the canal. At the end of the canal is a bridge that is famous for having one the lowest vertical clearances of the bridges on the ICW - 65 feet (plus minus a few inches depending on the wind-driven water level). There aren't normal tides in these waters. Some boats with taller masts get through here by heeling the boat by loading one side with heavy stuff, or poling the main sail out with a heavy load (like a person for example). Caprice mast tip is about 43 feet over water level, so I don't have to worry about that.
Once out of the canal I raised the mainsail, too, and was able to sail at a great pace. The weather wasn't pretty, but the winds were favorable and just the right strength.

And I was glad to see that today other sailboats followed suit and used their sails, too. Good for them!
I found an anchorage in a little cove just south of Belhaven and spent the afternoon and night there.

Day 52, Sunday, October 25th

Somewhere on the Pasquotank River to Entrance of the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal

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The night had been incredibly calm - the boat was steady as if on land. The morning revealed a surface flat like a mirror.

By the time I finished breakfast a slight breeze had sprung up and I decided to try to sail as much as possible - thanks to my start yesterday I didn't have to rush.

Yesterday's sail had been an obstacle course through the crab pots, but thanks to the calm surface today they were easy to spot and avoid.

Sailing south over the sound was a pleasure. The wind was just strong enough to make me go at a comfortable speed of 4-5 knots. Other sailboats started appearing behind me and on my port side (these had taken the other route via Coinjock). Not one of them was sailing, though, all were just going with their engine. I didn't get it, the wind was good, but here these 'sailors' chose to be lazy and leave the sails furled.

On the other side of the sound begins the Alligator River, and here is where I found a gas station for diesel. Total diesel used since Tarrytown on the Hudson: 23 gallons.

I continued my trip first though the opening bridge

Then sailing (and motor sailing when the wind briefly almost died). I was continually being passed by a procession of sailboats that were just motoring.

By the time I reached my planned anchorage I found that there were another dozen boats here already - almost all of them the ones that had passed me through the night. The mosquitoes were very bad here, I dropped the anchor as quickly as I could and fled below without even checking if it held properly.

During the night the wind shifted and started blowing from the North, like the weather forecast had predicted. The anchor held well, as always.

Day 51, Saturday, October 24th

Elizabeth City, NC to somewhere on the Pasquotank River

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Somebody showed me how to use the washer this morning, so I could finally get this done. There were some weird navy boats docked in the marina, and one of the regulars explained that these are Vietnam river boats. Whoa? Are these the boats Ira, my buddy of the leg from Port Huron to Buffalo, did serve on?

I texted Ira the photo and he confirmed that these are the deathtraps they were cruising the river with. With six people on each boat!

Next I walked into town to visit the farmers market where I got bread, cheese, spinach and tomatoes. I walked up to the coffee shop, but on entering I found it so hot inside that I changed my mind and walked back to the harbor.

They had a pretty replica of a ship of Elizabethan times, called, guess, 'Elizabeth'.  I wonder if there's something about that name.

I chatted with one of the 'Rose Buddies', the elderly men greeting and helping the boaters, and learned that old men in North Carolina can have pretty progressive attitudes. Lunch was crab cakes, and it came from this:

Delicious, and the cakes were big and full of crab meat.

It was time to leave to position myself close to the Albemarle sound, which is famous for being rough when a wind blows. I sailed south for a couple hours, passing a blimp manufacturer, and anchored somewhere in the Pasquotank River, close to where it joins the Albemarle.

Day 50, Friday, October 23th

Dismal Swamp, NC to Elizabeth City, NC

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Traffic on the Dismal Swamp Canal is not without troubles. First of all, one has to plan ahead for the bridge/lock openings. Unlike in the Erie, there are only 4 lock openings per day. Locks do not open on demand. Secondly, the canal is famous for its debris. If you keep a vigilant lookout, you can avoid the stuff on the surface, like this tree log.

However, some older logs are so heavy that they are fully submerged and lurk below the surface. I bumped one of those yesterday. It's times like these when I'm happy Caprice is sturdy and its rudder and propeller are well protected.

I left the anchorage at the visitor center relatively early - not early enough to make it to the next lock in time for their first opening, but much too early for the second opening. I did this on purpose to be able to drive very slowly and peacefully. When I reached the bridge before the lock I anchored with my main and stern anchor and remained nicely in position without running the engine. The other boats caught up with me now, and they had to keep maneuvering with their engines to stay in where they were. They were to lazy to use their anchors...

Eventually the bridge opened and we proceeded to the lock. We ended up having a total of 7 boats in the lock together (there are two motor cruisers out of frame on the right)

Once we locked through the motor boats took off ahead of us, closely followed by all the sail boats. I didn't want to rush like those maniacs and let them all pass.

That was the last of them passing me, and finally I had peace.

The lower part of the canal becomes the Pasquotank River, and is much wider and even prettier than the canal. It meanders through the wilderness, occasionally becoming wide like a small lake.

When I arrived in Elizabeth City all the spots at the free city dock were taken -some boats even rafted up to each other. I didn't care to do that and in any case wanted better access to water, shower and laundry, so I went off to another marina half a mile away, The first dock they guided me made me run aground. I'm starting to get used to this. They changed to a different slip and I carefully docked. The method of docking is something I've never done before - there's no dock to hold on to at all, just four piles, and when one drives into them (very slowly), you lasso them with your lines and keep the boat in position this way. Right at the bow is a tiny little dock that you can jump on from your boat. I was a little nervous docking by myself, but all went well with the help of the dockmaster and another boater who grabbed my bow and gave me time to snag the piles.

Once docked and showered I walked into town. I'm getting into the Southern States now:

After buying some supplies I found one of the recommended places in town, called prosaically 'Quality Seafood'. It was more like a deli than a restaurant, it had no table service, but instead you ordered your food at the counter and waited for your number to be called. Eventually I got my 'Scallop Dinner'. I realized this place deep fries everything - I guess also a Southern thing?

Styrofoam plate, Kraft Tartar and Cocktail Sauce, plastic utensils, plastic tray, It's a fast food place really. But the scallops were delicious and I didn't mind the presentation one bit. I got a little disconcerted when I got to the second of the 'scallops' and they appeared to be just breading. I considered it a fluke and continued munching, and found another 'hollow scallop'. Eventually I realized that this wasn't a mistake, but a part of the dish called 'Hush Puppies'. I've never had those before, they are essentially a dollop of deep-fried cornmeal batter with spices, and now I know they are a staple of Southern cooking.
I returned to the boat and after some unsuccessful attempts at laundry (first it was always used by other people, and next I couldn't make the machine run), I went to bed for a good night's sleep.

Day 49, Thursday, October 22th

Norfolk, VA to the Dismal Swamp, NC

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I hadn't planned to go here today already, I wanted to go to a marina in Norfolk or Portsmouth for a day and explore the town. But I found myself not so enthusiastic about being in the big city again, and Alex had texted that Elizabeth City was really nice. So on the spur of the moment I decided to take the Dismal Swamp Canal to Elizabeth City, instead of the somewhat more common route East that goes via the Currituck Bay.

I moved south on the river and encountered even more Navy yards and another two carriers. Some ships were being serviced in absolutely humongous floating dry docks.

I'm posting so many photos of the Navy ships for my friend Danny who just loves things that are used to blow other things up.

I reached the infamous Railroad bridge that is being repaired just now when most of the cruisers are moving south, and had to wait over an hour for it to open. While I was waiting I made myself sandwiches for the trip and admired this huge crane with another little crane on top of it.

Many other boats were in the river waiting with me, and once the bridge opened the race was on.

More Navy ships, this is the (decommissioned) submarine tender Simon Lake (S-33). 

And then, further south, after a brief wait for another opening bridge, the river splits and most of the racing boats took the left turn. I took the right to the Dismal Swamp Canal, together with three other sailboats. One of them split to anchor in a little secluded bay, and the other two reached the lock with me. This was my first 'locking-through' single handed, all the other locks in the Erie Canal we passed with my Admiral. But with the help of the lockmaster, all went smooth. Not having the mast sticking out front and back sure helps, too.

It's not a huge lift, maybe 10 feet. Compared with the Erie, a piece of cake.

And then, we entered a different world. The Dismal Swamp Canal is a very old, hand dug shallow canal that goes through some gorgeous wilderness. Some of it however has a major road going only a few dozen meters parallel, so the sense of seclusion is sometimes shattered when an 18 wheeler barrels past. The two sailboats decided to stop right after the first bridge to buy provisions, and the motorboat that had shared the lock with us forged ahead, so after a few minutes I was totally by myself.

I was initially going very slow, mindful of the shallowness and the stories of debris hitting the boat and the propeller. I eventually sped up a little because I didn't want to arrive at my destination after dark.

The further I got the prettier the scenery became, and the only boat I encountered along the way was a kayak.

As the evening arrived I myself arrived at my intended destination - the visitor center. Imagine my shock of finding all these boats here:

There's not much dock space, so what these guys did is 'raft' up to one another. I couldn't join into that circus, and anchored just behind them. I went to shore by dinghy to finally dispose of three bags of garbage, and got some fresh water in my gallon jugs. The visitor center was already closed, I'll check it tomorrow maybe before I leave here.

Day 48, Wednesday, October 21th

Wachapreague, VA to Norfolk, VA

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When I left this morning the stranded boat was still there - I didn't dare get close because I could see that their boat had a really shallow keel, if they ran aground I wouldn't even get close with the Caprice. Amazingly Alex texted me that he knew the people who ran aground, and that they got off eventually, after apparently digging some ditch! I even got a photo - and they are truly and fully aground.

I'm glad that they managed to get free, especially since I hadn't been able to help them.

My own journey went very well. I couldn't sail because the wind was straight on my nose, but it wasn't very strong and there weren't really high waves. So it was an easy motor ride.

I saw a number of fishing trawlers, each of them equipped with two smaller boats that they launch and do whatever they have to do to catch the fish, and then retrieve. They even had a spotter plane!

Conditions got so nice that I was able to sit in front of the boat at the mast and look out for dolphins. I didn't see any then (but later), but instead a few pelican came close, probably checking if I was a fishing boat, and departing with a huff when they saw I wasn't.

As I turned around Cape Charles I was able to raise my sails and sheet them in real close, for a few extra fractions of a knot. I couldn't believe my speed over ground - 8.3 knots at times. The incoming tide added a cool 2 knots to my own speed.

For the first time ever I tried the inboard sheeting blocks that one can screw into the deck when needed. They worked really well with my small jib.

I passed under, err, OVER the Chesapeake Bay bridge. Sorry, very confusing. This bridge has an elevated part and two tunnel parts. I passed over the center tunnel since there was no immediate traffic, apart from this abomination:

One of the maxims of engineering is: 'If it doesn't look right, it probably isn't right'. I guess no engineers were involved in the design of this thing.

Right before the Hampton roads there's Thimble shoal with a lighthouse to warn you off

I finally approached the Naval Station, and was amazed to see three carriers docked there

On the left is CVN-75, 'Harry S Truman' and in the middle is CVN-69, 'Dwight D Eisenhower'. The beast at the right is LHD-1, 'Wasp'. 

Look at the beam of those ships, 77 meters! According to Wikipedia, they carry a total crew of 5700 people each. Imagine the galley!

Further down the line of docked ships there were some real oddballs, for example this one:

I have not the slightest idea what that is.

Further down the line, some regular ships again, I think they might be destroyers.

Past the Naval Station is the commercial harbor, with container ships and supertankers.

Finally I'm closing in on downtown Norfolk as the light is fading. But what is this?! An old friend:

Funny to come across the same cruise ship I saw in New York City. I don't think I'll catch up with them again.

Finally as night breaks I reach the anchorage in the center of Norfolk, just in time to drop the anchor and have dinner. Tomorrow I'll move into a marina to resupply and explore Norfolk

Tuesday, October 20th

Wachapreague, VA

The wind forecast for today looked terrible, 15 knots and more straight from the SW, exactly my course. This would have been an ordeal and I wouldn't have been able to make Norfolk before nightfall under those conditions. Dave and RoseAnn from Pyxis persuaded me to wait a day, and I'm glad they did.

First of all I had time to make myself a proper breakfast (bacon and eggs on toast!), and could sit inside and relax in the warmth. My big propane tank ran out, and I'm on the last of my little one-pound bottles, but just in time the temperatures are rising.

I suddenly got a little wake, and looking out I saw a boat with half a dozen people docking at the old coast guard station. They stood around on the deck in front of it for some time and then opened the windows and doors. Another boat arrived and they looked like over a dozen visitors.

I shaved and got dressed and inflated the dinghy, but by the time I got to shore they had walked off into the woods. I walked after them, and realized too late that I didn't bring any mosquito repellent, a big mistake.

I soon encountered the first people of the group and introduced myself. They told me that the island is actually off limits and that they are with the Nature Conservancy. I walked with them back to the station and had some great conversations with a few of them. One of them, Belle, was a bear guide in Alaska in the season - imagine that for a job. They told me about their project to make the coast guard station into a showroom/shelter for school groups that they plan to bring to the island as an excursion. In turn they were curious about my story. I'm glad I met those nice people. They even offered me a ride back into town when they heard I needed provisions, and a free ride back. I cannot reach the town with the Caprice, unfortunately. I thanked them for the offer, and instead they left me a half dozen half liter water bottles - my water situation is thus solved.

After they left I spent some time cleaning up the boat, and then I saw another sailboat sailing into the inlet, but they turned north. When I looked again a few minutes later, they were still in the same position, with their sails up. Eventually I realized they must be stuck. Unfortunately I couldn't go and offer assistance, because I think Caprice will likely run aground over there as well. And they were much too far for me to row over with the rubber dinghy. I switched on the radio and listened if they were calling for help but I didn't hear any calls.

By sunset the tide had receded pretty far and my last view of them was them leaning over a bit. It doesn't look too terrible, the next tide will hopefully be high enough for them to free themselves. Poor guys, this could have been me two days ago.