Day 50, Friday, October 23th

Dismal Swamp, NC to Elizabeth City, NC

Track on ViewRanger

Traffic on the Dismal Swamp Canal is not without troubles. First of all, one has to plan ahead for the bridge/lock openings. Unlike in the Erie, there are only 4 lock openings per day. Locks do not open on demand. Secondly, the canal is famous for its debris. If you keep a vigilant lookout, you can avoid the stuff on the surface, like this tree log.

However, some older logs are so heavy that they are fully submerged and lurk below the surface. I bumped one of those yesterday. It's times like these when I'm happy Caprice is sturdy and its rudder and propeller are well protected.

I left the anchorage at the visitor center relatively early - not early enough to make it to the next lock in time for their first opening, but much too early for the second opening. I did this on purpose to be able to drive very slowly and peacefully. When I reached the bridge before the lock I anchored with my main and stern anchor and remained nicely in position without running the engine. The other boats caught up with me now, and they had to keep maneuvering with their engines to stay in where they were. They were to lazy to use their anchors...

Eventually the bridge opened and we proceeded to the lock. We ended up having a total of 7 boats in the lock together (there are two motor cruisers out of frame on the right)

Once we locked through the motor boats took off ahead of us, closely followed by all the sail boats. I didn't want to rush like those maniacs and let them all pass.

That was the last of them passing me, and finally I had peace.

The lower part of the canal becomes the Pasquotank River, and is much wider and even prettier than the canal. It meanders through the wilderness, occasionally becoming wide like a small lake.

When I arrived in Elizabeth City all the spots at the free city dock were taken -some boats even rafted up to each other. I didn't care to do that and in any case wanted better access to water, shower and laundry, so I went off to another marina half a mile away, The first dock they guided me made me run aground. I'm starting to get used to this. They changed to a different slip and I carefully docked. The method of docking is something I've never done before - there's no dock to hold on to at all, just four piles, and when one drives into them (very slowly), you lasso them with your lines and keep the boat in position this way. Right at the bow is a tiny little dock that you can jump on from your boat. I was a little nervous docking by myself, but all went well with the help of the dockmaster and another boater who grabbed my bow and gave me time to snag the piles.

Once docked and showered I walked into town. I'm getting into the Southern States now:

After buying some supplies I found one of the recommended places in town, called prosaically 'Quality Seafood'. It was more like a deli than a restaurant, it had no table service, but instead you ordered your food at the counter and waited for your number to be called. Eventually I got my 'Scallop Dinner'. I realized this place deep fries everything - I guess also a Southern thing?

Styrofoam plate, Kraft Tartar and Cocktail Sauce, plastic utensils, plastic tray, It's a fast food place really. But the scallops were delicious and I didn't mind the presentation one bit. I got a little disconcerted when I got to the second of the 'scallops' and they appeared to be just breading. I considered it a fluke and continued munching, and found another 'hollow scallop'. Eventually I realized that this wasn't a mistake, but a part of the dish called 'Hush Puppies'. I've never had those before, they are essentially a dollop of deep-fried cornmeal batter with spices, and now I know they are a staple of Southern cooking.
I returned to the boat and after some unsuccessful attempts at laundry (first it was always used by other people, and next I couldn't make the machine run), I went to bed for a good night's sleep.